HORIZONTAL SIDING INSTALLATION
Installing PanelsThe first course (row of panels) should be placed in the starter strip and securely locked along the entire length of the siding panel. Make sure the panel is securely locked before fastening.
Fasten the panels in the center of the nailing slots (see pages 14 and 15 for specific information on fastening and fasteners). Allowance should be made for expansion and contraction by leaving a 1/4” (6.4mm) gap between the siding and all corner posts and channels. Increase to 3/8” (9.5mm) when installing in temperatures below 40° F (4.4° C). If the panels are 20 feet (6.1 meters) or longer, refer to the manufacturer’s instructions for how to increasethe gap.Do not drive the head of the fastener tightly against the nail slot. Leave approximately 1/32” (0.8mm) between the fastener head and the vinyl (about the thickness of a dime).Check every fifth or sixth course for horizontal alignment (Fig. 36). Also check siding alignment with adjoining walls.When panels overlap, make sure they overlap by one half the length of the notch at the end of the panel, or approximately 1” (25.4mm) (Fig. 37).When lapping horizontal foam backed siding, slide panels together until the backing forms a continuous coverage (Fig. 38). Do not leave a gap between the backing of each panel.Stagger the siding end laps so that no two courses (rows of panels) are aligned vertically, unless separated by at least three courses.Always overlap joints away from entrances and/or away from the point of greatest traffic. This will improve the overall appearance of the installation (Fig. 37).
Fitting Siding Around Fixtures
Use a commercially available trim ring (Fig. 39) to fit siding to a penetration such as a faucet or railing attachment, following the manufacturer’s installation instructions. If a commercial trim ring is not available for the application, refer to Fig. 40, which illustrates how to fit the siding to the penetration. In addition, the following tips are suggested:
If hand-fitting to the fixture, always begin a new course of siding at the fixture.
Cut an opening 1/4” (6.4mm) bigger than the fixture or the trim ring.
When cutting, match the shape and contour of the obstruction.
For backed siding, due to the thickness of the backing, it may be necessary to build out the fixture or window and door trim to achieve the desired appearance.
Fitting Under Windows
To mark the section to be cut, perform the following:
These marks represent the vertical cuts (Fig. 41).
Hold the panel under the window and mark the width of the window opening on the panel. Add approximately 1/4” (6.4mm) to both sides to allow for expansion and contraction of the siding.
Lock a small piece of scrap siding into the lower panel next to the window. This will be used as a template for the horizontal cuts. Mark it 1/4” (6.4mm) below the sill height.
Transfer the horizontal measurement to the panel, which will be installed under the window. Measurement may not be the same on both sides of the window.
Cut the panel with tin snips and a utility knife. The cut panel is now ready for installation under the window. Perform the following:
Using a snap lock punch, punch the vinyl siding along the cut edge every 6” (152mm) so the raised lug is on the outside face.
Install utility trim under the window, as a receiver for the cut siding. Utility trim is used any time the top lock has been removed from the siding. Furring may be needed to maintain the face of the panel at the desired angle.